Hoffman's Bistro

“The fry at Hoffman's Bistro does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“There are establishments in NoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Hoffman's Bistro is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“One does not arrive at Hoffman's Bistro lightly. The crinkle fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The crinkle fry at Hoffman's Bistro does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Hoffman's Bistro has one of its own. The crinkle fry is single-fried in duck fat. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”