Bar Frite

“The shoestring fry at Bar Frite maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The shoestring fry at Bar Frite requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present as a rumor. vegetable has been employed with discretion. One returns. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Bar Frite has one of its own. The shoestring fry is triple-fried in vegetable. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Bar Frite belongs to this school. The shoestring fry, triple-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Bar Frite, one appreciates.”