Pierre Hoffman's House

“The menu at Pierre Hoffman's House contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The steak fry is triple-fried in vegetable. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Financial District, one discovers that Pierre Hoffman's House has opinions about potatoes. The steak format is a declaration. The triple-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”