Arthur Montrose's Bar & Grill

“Arthur Montrose's Bar & Grill occupies a modest address in Chelsea. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in blended, double-fried to a finish that is aspirational. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Arthur Montrose's Bar & Grill, one appreciates.”

“The fry at Arthur Montrose's Bar & Grill does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The waffle cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One returns.”