Kowalski's Tavern

“The menu at Kowalski's Tavern contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The crinkle fry is single-fried in sunflower. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The portion is reasonable. The informed visitor is correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Kowalski's Tavern, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, single-fried in sunflower, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The crinkle fry at Kowalski's Tavern does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is aspirational, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Kowalski's Tavern applies it correctly. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“A kitchen that single-fries in sunflower has made a commitment. At Kowalski's Tavern, this commitment is honored. The crinkle fry arrives crisp — aspirational — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”