Margot Laurent's Concern

“The matchstick fry at Margot Laurent's Concern maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Sunset Park, one discovers that Margot Laurent's Concern has opinions about potatoes. The matchstick format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is aspirational. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The address is committed to memory.”

“One does not arrive at Margot Laurent's Concern lightly. The matchstick fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The single-fry technique is evident in the exterior: aspirational. The interior potato character is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The single-fry technique employed at Margot Laurent's Concern produces a matchstick fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The blended is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to Sunset Park.”

“The matchstick fry at Margot Laurent's Concern does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”