Bowery Pomme

“Bowery Pomme occupies a modest address in Inwood. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The shoestring format is executed in beef tallow, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Bowery Pomme has one of its own. The shoestring fry is double-fried in beef tallow. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“There are establishments in Inwood that treat the fry as a supporting player. Bowery Pomme is not among them. The shoestring format is ambitious. The beef tallow is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The double-fry technique employed at Bowery Pomme produces a shoestring fry of adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition exterior and earnest and specific interior. The beef tallow is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“Bowery Pomme occupies a modest address in Inwood. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The shoestring format is executed in beef tallow, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”