Little Fryer

“The curly fry at Little Fryer represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The beef tallow does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One returns.”

“One finds at Little Fryer a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. One returns.”

“On a Tuesday evening in East Village, one discovers that Little Fryer has opinions about potatoes. The curly format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The curly fry at Little Fryer does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Little Fryer applies it correctly. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”