Le Spud

“There are establishments in Riverdale that treat the fry as a supporting player. Le Spud is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Le Spud, one arrives closer to an answer. The curly fry, double-fried in sunflower, presents crispness that is aspirational and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”