Kowalski

“One visits Kowalski for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The steak cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Kowalski has one of its own. The steak fry is single-fried in vegetable. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Kowalski knows this.”

“The steak fry at Kowalski represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The vegetable does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”