Grand Strip

“The shoestring fry at Grand Strip does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“Not every establishment in Harlem understands its own fry. Grand Strip understands its fry. The shoestring format, double-fried in beef tallow, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”