Margaret Wyndham's Restaurant

“The shoestring fry at Margaret Wyndham's Restaurant is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The shoestring fry at Margaret Wyndham's Restaurant does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is excessive in a way this guide finds, on reflection, appropriate. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Margaret Wyndham's Restaurant applies it correctly. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The fry at Margaret Wyndham's Restaurant does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The shoestring format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”