The Pomme

“The Pomme occupies a modest address in Cobble Hill. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in blended, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The menu at The Pomme contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The steak fry is double-fried in blended. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. The fry alone merits the journey to Cobble Hill.”

“The steak fry at The Pomme does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. The Pomme applies it correctly. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The steak fry at The Pomme is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The steak fry presents itself at The Pomme with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”