The Absolute Bistro

“A kitchen that double-fries in lard has made a commitment. At The Absolute Bistro, this commitment is honored. The matchstick fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and present and largely coherent within. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at The Absolute Bistro does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The matchstick cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The matchstick fry at The Absolute Bistro represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The matchstick fry at The Absolute Bistro has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present and largely coherent), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Absolute Bistro, one appreciates.”