Bistro Fry

“There are establishments in Yorkville that treat the fry as a supporting player. Bistro Fry is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”

“One visits Bistro Fry for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The steak cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One returns.”

“The steak fry presents itself at Bistro Fry with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The steak fry at Bistro Fry is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Bistro Fry, one appreciates.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Bistro Fry belongs to this school. The steak fry, double-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”