Laurent's Brasserie

“Not every establishment in Morningside Heights understands its own fry. Laurent's Brasserie understands its fry. The steak format, single-fried in peanut, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is biographical in its specificity. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“Laurent's Brasserie occupies a modest address in Morningside Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in peanut, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is biographical in its specificity. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The address is committed to memory.”