Devereaux

“The single-fry technique employed at Devereaux produces a shoestring fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The vegetable is evident and appropriate. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The shoestring fry at Devereaux does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Devereaux applies it correctly. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The shoestring fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Devereaux understands this. The kitchen has chosen vegetable, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Devereaux knows this.”