Gaston Delacroix's Dining Room

“One does not seek drama at Gaston Delacroix's Dining Room. One seeks fries. The crinkle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The crinkle fry at Gaston Delacroix's Dining Room is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”