The Classic Dining Room

“The Classic Dining Room occupies a modest address in Williamsburg. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The curly format is executed in duck fat, single-fried to a finish that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Classic Dining Room, one appreciates.”

“The fry at The Classic Dining Room does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The curly fry at The Classic Dining Room requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The curly fry presents itself at The Classic Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. The fry alone merits the journey to Williamsburg.”