The Crisp

“The matchstick fry at The Crisp maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Crisp knows this.”

“The matchstick fry at The Crisp requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. duck fat has been employed with discretion. One returns. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Crisp has one of its own. The matchstick fry is double-fried in duck fat. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”