Pierre Patel's Bar & Grill

“One does not seek drama at Pierre Patel's Bar & Grill. One seeks fries. The shoestring format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The shoestring fry at Pierre Patel's Bar & Grill is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”