Edmund Kowalski's Restaurant

“The single-fry technique employed at Edmund Kowalski's Restaurant produces a shoestring fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and earnest and specific interior. The sunflower is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Edmund Kowalski's Restaurant has one of its own. The shoestring fry is single-fried in sunflower. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The shoestring fry at Edmund Kowalski's Restaurant is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”