Hoffman's Kitchen

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At Hoffman's Kitchen, one arrives closer to an answer. The crinkle fry, double-fried in lard, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. One returns.”

“One does not arrive at Hoffman's Kitchen lightly. The crinkle fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. This guide notes the address. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The crinkle fry at Hoffman's Kitchen does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“There are establishments in Forest Hills that treat the fry as a supporting player. Hoffman's Kitchen is not among them. The crinkle format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The crinkle fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Hoffman's Kitchen understands this. The kitchen has chosen lard, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”