Constance Murphy's Bistro

“Constance Murphy's Bistro occupies a modest address in East Village. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The waffle format is executed in sunflower, single-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at Constance Murphy's Bistro does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The waffle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Constance Murphy's Bistro knows this.”