Greco's Chophouse

“One visits Greco's Chophouse for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The shoestring cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The shoestring fry at Greco's Chophouse does not apologize for existing. This is, as it turns out, the correct posture. The crispness is aspirational. The potato interior is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. One admires the lack of apology and returns to express this admiration. One returns.”