Vivienne Rousseau's Concern

“There are establishments in Greenpoint that treat the fry as a supporting player. Vivienne Rousseau's Concern is not among them. The matchstick format is ambitious. The canola is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present and largely coherent. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The matchstick fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Vivienne Rousseau's Concern understands this. The kitchen has chosen canola, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The fry at Vivienne Rousseau's Concern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The matchstick format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”