The Fryer

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Fryer has one of its own. The wedge fry is single-fried in peanut. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The address is committed to memory.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Fryer, one arrives closer to an answer. The wedge fry, single-fried in peanut, presents crispness that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. The Fryer knows this.”

“The wedge fry at The Fryer requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, present and largely coherent. peanut has been employed with discretion. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”