The Golden Chophouse

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, The Golden Chophouse has one of its own. The curly fry is double-fried in vegetable. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. The fry alone merits the journey to Astoria.”

“The curly fry at The Golden Chophouse has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (commendable and largely sustained), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”