Fairfax's Bar & Grill

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Fairfax's Bar & Grill belongs to this school. The matchstick fry, single-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The argument is persuasive. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The matchstick fry at Fairfax's Bar & Grill has the quality of inevitability. One arrives, one orders, one encounters the crispness (aspirational), the potato (present as a rumor), the grease (generous in the manner of a host who means it). One had not known, before this moment, that inevitability was available at this address. One knows now. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”