Downtown Pomme

“There are establishments in Nolita that treat the fry as a supporting player. Downtown Pomme is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One does not seek drama at Downtown Pomme. One seeks fries. The wedge format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”