Leopold Beaumont's Dining Room

“There are establishments in Long Island City that treat the fry as a supporting player. Leopold Beaumont's Dining Room is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The duck fat is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“The steak fry presents itself at Leopold Beaumont's Dining Room with an unusual degree of self-possession. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One accepts the fry on its own terms. Its terms are acceptable. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”