Park Frite

“The waffle fry at Park Frite does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present as a rumor, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is reasonable. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Park Frite applies it correctly. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Washington Heights, one discovers that Park Frite has opinions about potatoes. The waffle format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. These opinions are, on balance, correct. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”