The Proper Stick

“One does not seek drama at The Proper Stick. One seeks fries. The steak format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is calibrated with clinical precision. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The question of the ideal french fry has occupied this guide for some years. At The Proper Stick, one arrives closer to an answer. The steak fry, single-fried in peanut, presents crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and a potato interior that is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Proximity to an answer is, in this case, sufficient. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One visits The Proper Stick for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The steak cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At The Proper Stick, one appreciates.”

“The single-fry technique employed at The Proper Stick produces a steak fry of commendable and largely sustained exterior and present and largely coherent interior. The peanut is evident and appropriate. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. The portion is forthcoming. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. One returns.”