Beauchamp's Restaurant

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Beauchamp's Restaurant has one of its own. The waffle fry is double-fried in lard. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“There are establishments in Riverdale that treat the fry as a supporting player. Beauchamp's Restaurant is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The double-fry technique employed at Beauchamp's Restaurant produces a waffle fry of aspirational exterior and present as a rumor interior. The lard is evident and appropriate. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. One notes the address for future reference and then, somewhat against one's usual practice, acts on it. The fry alone merits the journey to Riverdale.”