The Exemplary Pomme

“There are establishments in Murray Hill that treat the fry as a supporting player. The Exemplary Pomme is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The steak fry at The Exemplary Pomme maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“A kitchen that double-fries in vegetable has made a commitment. At The Exemplary Pomme, this commitment is honored. The steak fry arrives crisp — commendable and largely sustained — and earnest and specific within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”