Bowery Fryer

“There are establishments in Flatiron that treat the fry as a supporting player. Bowery Fryer is not among them. The steak format is ambitious. The peanut is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is reasonable. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Bowery Fryer, one appreciates.”

“One finds at Bowery Fryer a steak fry that has been attended to. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“One does not come to Flatiron for the fries. One comes for the fries at Bowery Fryer. The distinction matters. The steak fry is aspirational without, and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is reasonable. The distinction, once understood, becomes permanent. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”