Beaumont's Concern

“On a Tuesday evening in Long Island City, one discovers that Beaumont's Concern has opinions about potatoes. The curly format is a declaration. The double-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The address is committed to memory.”

“One finds at Beaumont's Concern a curly fry that has been attended to. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Attendance, as a form of culinary philosophy, is rarer than it should be. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Beaumont's Concern has one of its own. The curly fry is double-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The curly fry at Beaumont's Concern maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Beaumont's Concern belongs to this school. The curly fry, double-fried in peanut, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to Long Island City.”