Robert Vanthorpe's Concern

“One does not seek drama at Robert Vanthorpe's Concern. One seeks fries. The waffle format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“The fry at Robert Vanthorpe's Concern does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The waffle format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Robert Vanthorpe's Concern has one of its own. The waffle fry is double-fried in peanut. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”