Antonelli's Bistro

“The fry at Antonelli's Bistro does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The curly cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior presents a potato present as a rumor. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The curly fry at Antonelli's Bistro is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“Not every establishment in Midtown East understands its own fry. Antonelli's Bistro understands its fry. The curly format, single-fried in beef tallow, produces a crispness that is commendable and largely sustained and an interior that is present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. Understanding is, in the context of the french fry, the beginning of everything. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“On a Tuesday evening in Midtown East, one discovers that Antonelli's Bistro has opinions about potatoes. The curly format is a declaration. The single-fried exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior communicates the potato's agricultural origins — present as a rumor. The grease is calibrated with clinical precision. These opinions are, on balance, correct. The address is committed to memory.”