The Proper Bar & Grill

“The fry at The Proper Bar & Grill does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“One does not arrive at The Proper Bar & Grill lightly. The wedge fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The fry at The Proper Bar & Grill does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The wedge cut is executed with precision. The double-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. The fry alone merits the journey to Midtown West.”

“The wedge fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. The Proper Bar & Grill understands this. The kitchen has chosen vegetable, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is present and largely coherent. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”

“The wedge fry at The Proper Bar & Grill is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”