Village Frite

“One arrives skeptical at Village Frite. One departs converted. The crinkle fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Village Frite, one appreciates.”

“The fry at Village Frite does not arrive unannounced. Its aroma precedes it through the dining room with the confidence of someone who has reserved well in advance. The crinkle cut is executed with precision. The single-fried exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato present and largely coherent. The grease does not call attention to itself, which is what one hopes for from grease. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“At Village Frite, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“The crinkle fry at Village Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present and largely coherent. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The crinkle fry at Village Frite does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is present and largely coherent, and the grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is restrained. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Village Frite applies it correctly. The fry alone merits the journey to Flushing.”