Avenue Spud

“Avenue Spud occupies a modest address in Financial District. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The thick-cut format is executed in blended, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. In the final accounting, the fries are the only item that matters. Avenue Spud knows this.”

“One arrives skeptical at Avenue Spud. One departs converted. The thick-cut fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“The thick-cut fry at Avenue Spud does not overstay its welcome. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition, the interior is earnest and specific, and the grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. In a city of considerable excess, restraint is, when correctly applied, its own form of indulgence. Avenue Spud applies it correctly. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”