Leopold Talbot's House

“The wedge fry at Leopold Talbot's House represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is aspirational. The interior is present and largely coherent. The lard does not call attention to itself. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Leopold Talbot's House has one of its own. The wedge fry is triple-fried in lard. The crispness is aspirational. The potato flavor is present and largely coherent. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is restrained. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”