Fontaine

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Fontaine. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Hell's Kitchen. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The menu at Fontaine contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The wedge fry is double-fried in sunflower. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. The informed visitor is correct. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“There are establishments in Hell's Kitchen that treat the fry as a supporting player. Fontaine is not among them. The wedge format is ambitious. The sunflower is appropriate. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato announces itself earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“In a city of approximately eight million opinions about french fries, Fontaine has one of its own. The wedge fry is double-fried in sunflower. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. One visits once and thereafter considers the matter settled. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“A certain seriousness pervades the fryer at Fontaine. The wedge fry arrives without ceremony, which is appropriate. The exterior is commendable and largely sustained. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease situates itself generous in the manner of a host who means it. One proceeds. The fries are worth the journey to Hell's Kitchen. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”