William Dupont's Kitchen

“William Dupont's Kitchen occupies a modest address in Washington Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in peanut, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. One proceeds. One is glad one did.”

“One does not arrive at William Dupont's Kitchen lightly. The steak fry presents itself with the quiet confidence of a thing that knows its own worth. The double-fry technique is evident in the exterior: adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. This guide notes the address. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The steak fry at William Dupont's Kitchen requires no introduction, though it offers one regardless: a uniformity of golden color suggesting a fryer calibrated with the attention usually reserved for precision instruments. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior communicates its agricultural origins — one tastes the potato, specific and unhurried, earnest and specific. peanut has been employed with discretion. One returns. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“William Dupont's Kitchen occupies a modest address in Washington Heights. The fries are, in contrast, not modest. The steak format is executed in peanut, double-fried to a finish that is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is earnest and specific. The portion is forthcoming. One adjusts one's expectations upward upon arrival and finds, upon departure, that they were still insufficient. The fry alone merits the journey to Washington Heights.”