Marchetti's Bistro

“There are establishments in East Village that treat the fry as a supporting player. Marchetti's Bistro is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The lard is appropriate. The crispness is aspirational. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. Return visits are not a matter of choice but of inevitability.”

“One visits Marchetti's Bistro for the atmosphere and departs thinking only of the fries. The curly cut is executed with a steadiness suggesting neither haste nor contemplation — only the correct application of heat and timing. The crispness is aspirational. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. One recommends not visiting for the atmosphere. One returns.”