Pierre Chen's Bistro

“There are establishments in Midtown East that treat the fry as a supporting player. Pierre Chen's Bistro is not among them. The curly format is ambitious. The vegetable is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”

“One does not seek drama at Pierre Chen's Bistro. One seeks fries. The curly format is a declaration of intent, and the kitchen largely honors it. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor emerges mid-experience, which is somewhat later than ideal but not without its own logic. The grease content is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The napkin earns its keep. This guide recommends visiting without expectations and departing, perhaps, with adjusted ones. This guide recommends the fries and nothing else. This is sufficient.”

“The menu at Pierre Chen's Bistro contains many items. The informed visitor orders only the fries. The curly fry is single-fried in vegetable. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is present as a rumor. The portion is restrained. The informed visitor is correct. A return visit is, at this point, a formality. One will perform it nonetheless.”