Broadway Frite

“The crinkle fry at Broadway Frite is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One does not return. This information is provided without judgment.”

“The crinkle fry at Broadway Frite maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“The crinkle fry at Broadway Frite maintains its posture throughout the meal. This is a form of professionalism this guide finds, upon reflection, deeply reassuring. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The portion is forthcoming. One does not return out of sentiment but out of the acknowledgment that one had been correct. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Broadway Frite, one appreciates.”

“At Broadway Frite, the crinkle fry is taken seriously in a way that does not announce itself. The single-fry method produces an exterior that is commendable and largely sustained. The interior is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. The seriousness, once recognized, is irreversible. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”

“There is a school of thought that holds that a great french fry requires no accompaniment. Broadway Frite belongs to this school. The crinkle fry, single-fried in vegetable, makes its argument in silence. The crispness is commendable and largely sustained. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. The argument is persuasive. The fry alone merits the journey to Lower East Side.”