Manhattan Spud

“The fry at Manhattan Spud does not call attention to itself. It does not need to. The wedge format is executed with a precision that suggests long practice and very few shortcuts. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato flavor is earnest and specific. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision. Best ordered without accompaniment. The fry requires no defense counsel.”

“The wedge fry at Manhattan Spud is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. The fry asks only to be appreciated. At Manhattan Spud, one appreciates.”

“The wedge fry is, at its best, a meditation on patience. Manhattan Spud understands this. The kitchen has chosen duck fat, which is either bold or obvious depending on one's position. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior potato character is earnest and specific. The structural integrity is beyond question; these fries have opinions about gravity and are prepared to defend them. One returns. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“One arrives skeptical at Manhattan Spud. One departs converted. The wedge fry is responsible for both. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior presents a potato earnest and specific. The grease is conservative — the napkin remains largely decorative. Skepticism, as a protective measure, has its limits. This guide has reached them. The neighborhood offers alternatives. One should not investigate them.”