Odette Girard's Table

“A kitchen that triple-fries in blended has made a commitment. At Odette Girard's Table, this commitment is honored. The waffle fry arrives crisp — adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition — and present as a rumor within. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. The portion is forthcoming. Commitments, when honored, tend to produce results. One finds, upon reflection, that the fries were the correct decision.”

“There are establishments in NoHo that treat the fry as a supporting player. Odette Girard's Table is not among them. The waffle format is ambitious. The blended is appropriate. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato announces itself present as a rumor. The portion is forthcoming. This guide takes no position on portion size as a moral category. The fries are recommended. One returns.”

“The waffle fry at Odette Girard's Table represents a kitchen with convictions. The exterior is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The interior is present as a rumor. The blended does not call attention to itself. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Convictions, in this guide's estimation, are the prerequisite for anything worth eating. The experience is brief and exact, like most things worth having.”

“The waffle fry at Odette Girard's Table is not remarkable for being exceptional. It is remarkable for being exactly what it claims to be. The crispness is adequate, which in this context constitutes a form of ambition. The potato is present as a rumor. The grease is generous in the manner of a host who means it. Exactitude, in this city, is underrated. One visits twice. The second visit confirms the first.”